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Erte Return to Thumbnails
Erte, born Roman de Tirtoff, was born into an ancient family
of Russian military aristocracy in 1892. He spent his first
19 years in imperial St Petersburg which overflowed at the
time with theatre, ballet and art. He designed a dress for
his mother to wear as a ball gown at the tender age of 6. In
1906 he began studying with portraitist Ilya Repin.
He arrived in Paris in 1912 to study with historical painter
Jean-Paul Laurens at Academie Julian. He hated the regimen
of study and quit within months. A dressmaker Caroline who
thought he had no talent for designing hired him. After a
month he submitted sketches to Pioret, the eccentric doyen
of French couturiers. His first assignment was to design
costumes for the notorious Mata Hari. In Paris he got his
pen name, which is merely the French pronunciation of his
initials R.T.
Piorot closed in 1914 because of the war. Erte designed for
Henry Bendel and Altman’s in New York. In 1915 he submitted
sketches to Harper’s Bazaar. They published his first cover
in January 1915. For twenty-two years his designs graced
the covers and pages of Harper’s Bazaar. In 1916 he
contributed work to Vogue. William Randolph Hearst,
publisher of Harper’s Bazaar, then signed him to an
exclusive 10-year contract to prevent him from working with
Vogue.
His name became synonymous with this publication and his
style became known as Art Deco. During his time he began
the astonishingly wide variety of artistic activities for
which he has become famous – designing clothes for
fashionable women; costumes for movie stars Joan Crawford,
Norma Shearer, and many others; sets for Hollywood films;
extraordinarily imaginative costumes and sets for George
White’s Scandals, the Folies Bergère, the Paris Opera, the
Glyndenbourne Festival opera, and innumerable theatrical
productions; and many other theatre products.
In 1926 he returned to Paris because he wanted to work in
theatre. He began to design fabrics in 1929. He designed
costumes and sets for the 1964 New York World’s Fair.
At seventy-five he began designing graphics that have
brought him to international acclaim. He worked with a
succession of new mediums – sculpture, glass, ceramics,
metallic art, and others. His first graphic editions were
created in 1968. In 1980 RFK International introduced his
sculpture Collection. Circle Fine Arts introduced his
jewelry collection the same year. In 1983 he helped design
a line of women’s Haute Couture clothing and millinery.
January 1987 he designed the cover for Playboy.
The influence of Erte's style and the demand for his art
live on. His work belongs to prestigious museum collections
throughout the world, most notably the Smithsonian, The
Victoria and Albert Museum (London), New York's Metropolitan
Museum and The Museum of Modern Art. Many books have been
published on the artist's life and work, including Erte at
Ninety-Five: The Complete New Graphics [The Extended
Edition] and Erte—The Last Works. As the exclusive publisher
of Erte, Chalk & Vermilion Fine Arts of Greenwich, CT is
pleased to make available, through Central Galleries, his
limited edition serigraphs, bronze sculptures, books and
posters.
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